I write the whole nine day trip in one go, so grab a cup of coffee or tea and a cookie!---
This trip was very different from trips I normally undertake. First off, it was a school expedition within the boundaries of me becoming a wilderness guide, the first of four trips we do with school. It was interesting also to spend pretty much 24 hours together with people you don't know super well, and maybe not get along with very well. Privacy is limited to the time you hurry off to the forest toilet and when you're in your sleeping bag; most of the time you were surrounded by the others, or at least were with your food partner. Nevertheless, it was a good experience, the group bonded together and I think I personally now get along well with all of them in varying degrees.
Driving north in Finland.
On the road to the National Park in Karelia.
The trip started in Kuru, where we packed up the cars and trailers on Monday morning and then started to drive north to Kuusamo. It was a sunny day and the drive was uneventful, and in the late evening we arrived at the place where we stayed for the night. Tuesday meant getting up early (6 o'clock) to go have breakfast and be early at the border crossing to Russia. It went smooth and without problems on both sides, although the Russian side took a lot longer. Nevertheless, after about two hours we were on the Russian roads to Paajärvi, the small village where the visitor centre of the NP is located and where we needed to collect some documents.
While the Planning Group, who planned the complete expedition, and the teacher took care of the documents, the rest of the group strolled off to the village and took in the local flair. Finland exported their hideous architecture here, grey concrete buildings were lining the streets, but people seemed in a good mood nevertheless and we were welcomed friendly in the shops and café. After a Russian soup lunch the trip to the National Park started, and the quality of the dirt roads decreased the further we travelled.
The village Paajärvi, washing day.
The way this expedition would be executed was that the planning group planned a loop of approximately 50 to 55 km, with a food pair being the daily guides and leading the rest of the group on their daily sections, which ranged from four to eight kilometers. The complete trail, except the first few kilometers, would be off trail. My food partner and me would be leading on Day 5, and we decided that he took the morning shift while I took over the afternoon one.
The UH train starts moving - slowly.
Leaving the National Park behind.
We started well, as the first daily guides forgot to take the Satphones so we had a short break after twenty minutes of walking while some went to pick up the phones. I went ahead with a member of the group who had problems with her 23+ kg backpack, in order to make some good use of the enforced break. We arrived at around 18 o'clock at a good location, and the daily guides designated the common fire place, the toilets and place where to fetch water, and then everyone was allowed to go and search for a camping place.
Camp Night 1.
We were supposed to use the school shelters, namely the ET (a 3 x 3 PU tarp) or a Loue (a half round, tipi kinda shelter - see the photos) but I opted for my Hyperlight Mountain Gear Echo I shelter, as I wasn't eager to carry a 800+ g shelter if I had a 112 g cuben tarp. Disadvantage is (from the teacher's/ education POV), that you are not able to make a fire in front of the cube tarp, as cuben burns quite nicely. As I personally don't need a fire in front of my shelter, this was fine for me, but I was asked to consider it for future expeditions. Anyway. The first night there we two small downpours, but as we awoke at six o'clock the sun slowly started to ascend. I made breakfast - Müsli and a cup of Starbucks Via - and packed up, and by 7.30 the 2nd group of Daily Guides welcomed us and told us about the trip ahead.
First easy bog crossing.
The first full day had nothing too spectacular landscape wise on the menu, people were trotting along and we had breaks in 30 to 45 minutes intervals, which was very new to me - I usually eat and drink on the go when going alone or with fellow UL backpackers. I also didn't see the logic of stopping just when you had worked up a good rhythm and were warm, but I guess if you carry huge loads that is a different story and you're happy when you can put down the monster on your back.
We crossed a first bog, not difficult, and had lunch. Just as we were finished and started to continue, the first and only shower of the trip came down, for maybe ten to fifteen minutes before it was again sunshine. We walked on, and came through some deforested areas, which was unexpected, but by four o'clock we reached what was too be our camping place for the night, so again we set off to find a camping space after all the stuff was explained.
Loue shelter of my food partner.
Loue vs. HMG Echo I.
The evenings were the time of the common fire, where the group gathered around a blazing fire. The Daily Guides then had a chance to self criticize, and then the "clients" had the chance to add to that. After that usually some discussions ensued, which was a nice way to spend the evening - free of TV, music, internet, just human interaction around the fire.
A frame bridge across a stream - education time.
Day two was the super bog day. While the planning group foresaw that we walked around the border of the bogs, our teacher stepped in and we made for the bog - all in the sake of education and showing that one can easily and without problems walk through a bog. This would be a test for me as well, I thought, as I was the only one with trailrunners on the feet. Our Daily Guide was the guinea pig, he needed to find a suitable route and should be the only one to get his feet wet.
How about some bogs?
I went after the DG, as I felt confident. The Gossamer Gear LT4s which I brought came in handy, as they allowed me to probe the ground in front of me to see if it was solid or soft. The DG made a good job, but at one point made a wrong turn and was stuck with both his rubber boots up to the knee in the mud. I jumped to his aid to grab his backpack and tried to provide some aid to get him out, which, after a while, succeed. Funnily enough, to offer him a solid place to stand, I made a wrong step and was up to my shine in the mud, but I could wriggle myself out just fine. After that it was enough education and we headed for the elevations at the sides, and made the lunch break.
Marching on.
Drying socks, shoes and feet during lunch.
Bogs = Cranberries = Delicious.
Daily Guide number two took over, and lead us along the Levgus river towards campsite number three, where we would stay for two nights - the next day would be a rest day. The trip was slow as the DG had one of the biggest packs, and people became unruly as it was time to find a campsite and we weren't getting there. After a group decision to move to the intended campsite, a good kilometer of where we were, two members of the group took the DG's pack and we made the one kilometer in less than an fifteen minutes. The campsite was great, at the mouth of a river, great view over the lake, plenty of dry driftwood and up on the hill also a nice piece of dry and flat ground for me and my tarp.
View from Campsite three.
Home, Sweet Home.
Friday morning, rest day. I woke up early, saw the sunrise but decided to not bother with going down to the lake and continue sleeping. I woke up later, had a breakfast down by the lake and was thinking "What the heck is that noise? It sounds like a boat." and sure enough, a few minutes later two Russian fishermen arrived in their little motorboat, as surprised to see us as we were to see them. Our Russian classmate had a short chat with them, before they proceeded to lay out their net. As tomorrow would be our guiding day, and my food partner was not too confident about orienteering, a classmate and me went scouting with him the direction we should take tomorrow. The mission was a success, we found the route and he seemed more confident.
Fishermen taking off.
Nam nam.
In the evening the plan was to build a steam hut, but because the initiator wasn't able to motivate enough people the project didn't succeed. Instead we were sitting around the common fire, drinking hot chocolate with marshmallows, and talking till it was time to hit the hay.
I slept a bit unrestful that night, likely in anticipation of my responsibility as a Daily Guide the following day. I planned to wake up at 5.30 but didn't hear the Alarm of my Suunto Core, and so I was up at 5.55 and going to wake up my partner and then the "clients". At 7.30 the group was together, and after some warm-up exercises and a group hug we started to walk. However, our walk was only short, because as we hit the bay which lead up to the river, the teacher stepped in and it was education time.
The exercise was to construct a raft to shuttle the packs and people across the bay. To construct the raft, we used two backpacks, two CCF mats and three wooden beams as well as a tarp/ groundsheet. I felt the exercise was fairly pointless, as we were a mere 15 minutes walk away from where we could have simply crossed the river on foot without even getting our feet wet and continue our trip. But this was an educational experience, and the "clients" enjoyed the task so it meant to stay positive (which I had problems with, I admit) and carry on. The raft worked well, and we got everyone safe and dry across the bay, after which we continued to the lunch place.
Mountain lake.
After lunch it was my turn to lead, and the route was to ascend Mt. Murtokumvara and descend on the other site to lake Ciprinka. However, one of the clients had severe knee problems, and another clients had back problems, so I needed to look for an easier route. Taking a bearing on a mountain lake, we proceeded. It was a new thing for me to be the leader of such a big group, and needing to cater to so many different needs and wants. However, I was lucky as the sun came out, which helped getting everyone in a good mood and by the time we arrived at the lake people were enjoying the walk.
I kept to the regular breaks, as we were still ascending a fair bit and I didn't want to go to hard on the clients with health problems. But the walk through nice mixed forests was easy, we made good speed, my bearings were spot on and by 16.30 we arrived at lake Ciprinka, we were lounged for a while in the sun before moving a bit further on to the planned camping spot.
Lake Ciprinka with view on Pyainur, the highest elevation in the area.
The requirements for campsites which we got were a) good firewood b) shelter from elements c) enough good pitching spots and d) a view. The camping spot I picked scored high on b), c) and d) though there were some remarks on a) as there was predominately pine around, which sparks a lot. Nevertheless, the clients were happy campers and feedback for me was largely positive at the common fire in the evening, though I was reminded that it was a educational expedition and that thus my frustration with the raft building exercise was not good.
View from campsite four.
I sat around for a long while around the common fire, long after everyone else had gone to sleep, and enjoyed looking at the embers, and the stars above me. It felt good to have mastered everything today, arrived where I wanted with a nice walk through beautiful scenery, and everyone was still healthy.
The wake-up call on day five came, and I soon was eating breakfast and enjoyed the lovely autumn view. The lake lay silent in front of me, and I enjoyed my coffee and müsli so much that I was a few minutes late. We had another warm-up session and group hug, and started our stroll towards campsite five.
The educational exercise of the day was triangulation, as we came to a spot where we could see the mountain range in front of us. I didn't bother with it and went down the hill to the lake, having a drink of ice cold water and snapped some photos. After a much too long break for my taste we continued, the "trail" went this time over moss-covered boulders which made for interesting walking.
We traversed the boulders without casualties, and started to walk the two or so kilometers till the intended campsite. The going was hard, we were in a very steep area, to the left the lake, to the right the fjell, not many camping places were around. The Daily Guide decided to spread wide to see more of the area and find a suitable spot, and while I and others went ahead to look, we were called back.
View from camp five.
What was waiting to happen, happened. The "client" with the heavy backpack and knee problems took a wrong step, twisted her calf and was down. Happily one of our classmates is a nurse, who immediately was there and administered first aid. We weren't going anywhere, and camp would be made where we were - searching for a good spot, the groups went off while the patient slowly hobbled to her spot, which her partner was setting up. Cooking dinner, common fire, discussions, hot chocolate, sleeping.
What's the story? Morning Glory.
Monday, rest day. I'm up a tad before 7.30 o'clock, grabbing the camera and descend down to the shore to relish the silence during the sunrise while the others are still sleeping. By the time I am back up at camp, the first ones are getting up, and I join a classmate to boil a cup of water for müsli and coffee. The plan is to go for the top of Pyainur, and by 11 o'clock a group of nine starts ascending. We make the 380m in ascent in a little over two hours, and enjoy the view from the top.
Just beneath the summit.
View from the top.
A fine ridge walk.
We take in the view, for me the best part of the whole trip, and after a while move down, out of the strong wind, to a more sheltered location to have lunch. Gas cookers soon are roaring,and luncheons are consumed. I offered my services as the last man as we started up, having an eye out for strugglers and supporting the Daily Guide. We start to walk, and while I wait for our teacher to come he sends me off with the words "I'll catch up with you". As he has been on the way up behind me and didn't get lost, I wasn't worried and started walking; but after a while I don't see him behind me and inform the DG.
Our calls remain unanswered, no surprise with this roaring wind, and after a few minutes of confusion we organize a search line, retracing our steps towards the campsite. We arrive there, but no teacher. The decision is made to commence down to camp, and call in at 16 o'clock to the basecamp and ask if the teacher already has arrived - we guessed he'd just made his way down after he got lost, and that we were treated with another exclusive education experience. The Satphone is a tricky device, and only the fourth try is answered. Yes, he is there, all fine, make your way down. Good, off we go.
Wilderness TV.
The evening around the campfire brings the news that we'll evacuate to the closest road, and a group of four will go get the cars - the patient won't be able to cover the ten or more kilometers to the cars. Her gear will be split up between the group, and she will only carry her 4 kg (!) Finnish Parachute Troopers backpack. No ridge walk then, as the original plan foresaw.
Wake-up call at six, breakfast, packing, ascending the hill till the lake on the saddle, then continue onwards. A beautiful sunny day, moods are high, the area is gorgeous and the views spectacular. We pass mountain lakes and an abandoned settlement, and by two o'clock we reach our campsite.
Abandoned log house. What is its story?
Sun, water, joy.
Bear poop.
I pitch high on a ridge, the wind is howling but I want a view. I drop down in the afternoon to have a cup of coffee with my mate, but he needs to make a Satphone call to the group who went to fetch the cars. I drink my cup, have a chat with my room mate and we wait for our friend to come back. After a good 45 minutes I walk to get him, and he lets me know that I should get ready to get the others, they got lost on the way to the cars.
A few calls later - did I mention that Satphones are tricky devices? - we know that they made it to the cars and are now on their way back, but they'd like us to come to the road to pick them up. Dusk is in full swing, and by the time the rescue team starts walking it is dark. We hit the road after a quarter, and a few minutes later we see the headlights of the cars - they made it! We deal out the snacks and jackets we brought, and start to walk back to camp.
The evening community fire is in full swing, as some members imagine to hear a bear. There is plenty of evidence of bears around the campsite - tracks and poop - and so the seed of fear is planted in some, even when the teacher reassures us that it is just the old tree which is creaking in the wind; and that a bear would likely hoof it as soon as he'd smell or see us. It is our last night out in the wild, and with that in mind I wander of to the high ridge on which I have pitched.
I just got comfy in my bivy bag as I hear a "flap, flap, flap". Well, better check that out then. The wind ripped out the peg I drove into the piece of rotten wood, thus out of the bag, re-stake, and back in. The wind goes strong the whole night, and I sleep a bit unrestful, but by the time my alarm goes off I feel fit. The view is magnificent, the stars slowly fading on my right, while I can see the red of dawn on my left - this will be a fine day.
Pyainur at dawn. EPIC.
We have a late start as the sun slowly creeps over the hill, basking our campsite in morning glory while the mist plays on the lake. The short walk to the car goes quick, and soon we pack up the stuff in the car and head back to the parking lot, where we left the trailer. The sun is making us feel warm and happy, though a cold wind is blowing. We sort out the gear, load the trailer and start the ride back to the village, way ahead of schedule.
Ranger station at the entry to the National Park.
Half way along the road we are stopped - it is the border zone and you always need to carry your passport and documents. We thought this will be a routine check, but what then ensues is interesting: The visitor centre of the NP forgot to give us an important document, and after an hour of discussing we need to follow the Military Police and the official to the village. Our teacher and our Russian classmate handle the situation very calmly, while the rest of the group hits the shop in Paajärvi and stocks up on Vodka and snacks for the trip. After about five and half hours we are free to continue to Finland, having solved the issue and we only needed to pay a minimum fine - the highest fine would have been deportation to your home country!
We are on the road again, the border crossing goes fine and we arrive just in time in Kuusamo to hit the spa (school pays!) to enjoy sauna, steam bath and hot showers after nine days in the wilderness. After everyone is clean we proceed to the local Pizza place, and after we are fully satisfied we hit the hay. The following day is driving back to the school in Kuru, a boring day of driving a good 800 km, but we also survived that.
Well, that was Russia, expedition one. It was beautiful landscape-wise, I was not disappointed, though I would have liked to walk some ridges and more kilometers a day, but being in a group it meant going as fast as the slowest member. The group experience was good as well, I learned to think more about others when guiding/ walking and to help out. I reckon some of the others saw that UL and Lightweight backpacking has its benefits, and I was asked to hold a lecture about it in the coming weeks at school =) I'll report on gear (including the gear list) and food during the coming days, and more detailed reviews of a couple of items in the next weeks.
Finally, on the subject of being off grid and not having a phone signal. I wanted to send my girlfriend a message every night to let her know that I am OK, and maybe send the occasional tweet. However, in the complete area - even on top of the fjell Pyainur - I had No Service, thus making it impossible to communicate with the outside world. I honestly can say that I didn't miss anything, it was relaxing to follow the daily routine and not worry about emails, news, work, and so on. I just could be, and that's what the outdoors are for.
I write the whole nine day trip in one go, so grab a cup of coffee or tea and a cookie!---
This trip was very different from trips I normally undertake. First off, it was a school expedition within the boundaries of me becoming a wilderness guide, the first of four trips we do with school. It was interesting also to spend pretty much 24 hours together with people you don't know super well, and maybe not get along with very well. Privacy is limited to the time you hurry off to the forest toilet and when you're in your sleeping bag; most of the time you were surrounded by the others, or at least were with your food partner. Nevertheless, it was a good experience, the group bonded together and I think I personally now get along well with all of them in varying degrees.
Driving north in Finland.
On the road to the National Park in Karelia.
The trip started in Kuru, where we packed up the cars and trailers on Monday morning and then started to drive north to Kuusamo. It was a sunny day and the drive was uneventful, and in the late evening we arrived at the place where we stayed for the night. Tuesday meant getting up early (6 o'clock) to go have breakfast and be early at the border crossing to Russia. It went smooth and without problems on both sides, although the Russian side took a lot longer. Nevertheless, after about two hours we were on the Russian roads to Paajärvi, the small village where the visitor centre of the NP is located and where we needed to collect some documents.
While the Planning Group, who planned the complete expedition, and the teacher took care of the documents, the rest of the group strolled off to the village and took in the local flair. Finland exported their hideous architecture here, grey concrete buildings were lining the streets, but people seemed in a good mood nevertheless and we were welcomed friendly in the shops and café. After a Russian soup lunch the trip to the National Park started, and the quality of the dirt roads decreased the further we travelled.
The village Paajärvi, washing day.
The way this expedition would be executed was that the planning group planned a loop of approximately 50 to 55 km, with a food pair being the daily guides and leading the rest of the group on their daily sections, which ranged from four to eight kilometers. The complete trail, except the first few kilometers, would be off trail. My food partner and me would be leading on Day 5, and we decided that he took the morning shift while I took over the afternoon one.
The UH train starts moving - slowly.
Leaving the National Park behind.
We started well, as the first daily guides forgot to take the Satphones so we had a short break after twenty minutes of walking while some went to pick up the phones. I went ahead with a member of the group who had problems with her 23+ kg backpack, in order to make some good use of the enforced break. We arrived at around 18 o'clock at a good location, and the daily guides designated the common fire place, the toilets and place where to fetch water, and then everyone was allowed to go and search for a camping place.
Camp Night 1.
We were supposed to use the school shelters, namely the ET (a 3 x 3 PU tarp) or a Loue (a half round, tipi kinda shelter - see the photos) but I opted for my Hyperlight Mountain Gear Echo I shelter, as I wasn't eager to carry a 800+ g shelter if I had a 112 g cuben tarp. Disadvantage is (from the teacher's/ education POV), that you are not able to make a fire in front of the cube tarp, as cuben burns quite nicely. As I personally don't need a fire in front of my shelter, this was fine for me, but I was asked to consider it for future expeditions. Anyway. The first night there we two small downpours, but as we awoke at six o'clock the sun slowly started to ascend. I made breakfast - Müsli and a cup of Starbucks Via - and packed up, and by 7.30 the 2nd group of Daily Guides welcomed us and told us about the trip ahead.
First easy bog crossing.
The first full day had nothing too spectacular landscape wise on the menu, people were trotting along and we had breaks in 30 to 45 minutes intervals, which was very new to me - I usually eat and drink on the go when going alone or with fellow UL backpackers. I also didn't see the logic of stopping just when you had worked up a good rhythm and were warm, but I guess if you carry huge loads that is a different story and you're happy when you can put down the monster on your back.
We crossed a first bog, not difficult, and had lunch. Just as we were finished and started to continue, the first and only shower of the trip came down, for maybe ten to fifteen minutes before it was again sunshine. We walked on, and came through some deforested areas, which was unexpected, but by four o'clock we reached what was too be our camping place for the night, so again we set off to find a camping space after all the stuff was explained.
Loue shelter of my food partner.
Loue vs. HMG Echo I.
The evenings were the time of the common fire, where the group gathered around a blazing fire. The Daily Guides then had a chance to self criticize, and then the "clients" had the chance to add to that. After that usually some discussions ensued, which was a nice way to spend the evening - free of TV, music, internet, just human interaction around the fire.
A frame bridge across a stream - education time.
Day two was the super bog day. While the planning group foresaw that we walked around the border of the bogs, our teacher stepped in and we made for the bog - all in the sake of education and showing that one can easily and without problems walk through a bog. This would be a test for me as well, I thought, as I was the only one with trailrunners on the feet. Our Daily Guide was the guinea pig, he needed to find a suitable route and should be the only one to get his feet wet.
How about some bogs?
I went after the DG, as I felt confident. The Gossamer Gear LT4s which I brought came in handy, as they allowed me to probe the ground in front of me to see if it was solid or soft. The DG made a good job, but at one point made a wrong turn and was stuck with both his rubber boots up to the knee in the mud. I jumped to his aid to grab his backpack and tried to provide some aid to get him out, which, after a while, succeed. Funnily enough, to offer him a solid place to stand, I made a wrong step and was up to my shine in the mud, but I could wriggle myself out just fine. After that it was enough education and we headed for the elevations at the sides, and made the lunch break.
Marching on.
Drying socks, shoes and feet during lunch.
Bogs = Cranberries = Delicious.
Daily Guide number two took over, and lead us along the Levgus river towards campsite number three, where we would stay for two nights - the next day would be a rest day. The trip was slow as the DG had one of the biggest packs, and people became unruly as it was time to find a campsite and we weren't getting there. After a group decision to move to the intended campsite, a good kilometer of where we were, two members of the group took the DG's pack and we made the one kilometer in less than an fifteen minutes. The campsite was great, at the mouth of a river, great view over the lake, plenty of dry driftwood and up on the hill also a nice piece of dry and flat ground for me and my tarp.
View from Campsite three.
Home, Sweet Home.
Friday morning, rest day. I woke up early, saw the sunrise but decided to not bother with going down to the lake and continue sleeping. I woke up later, had a breakfast down by the lake and was thinking "What the heck is that noise? It sounds like a boat." and sure enough, a few minutes later two Russian fishermen arrived in their little motorboat, as surprised to see us as we were to see them. Our Russian classmate had a short chat with them, before they proceeded to lay out their net. As tomorrow would be our guiding day, and my food partner was not too confident about orienteering, a classmate and me went scouting with him the direction we should take tomorrow. The mission was a success, we found the route and he seemed more confident.
Fishermen taking off.
Nam nam.
In the evening the plan was to build a steam hut, but because the initiator wasn't able to motivate enough people the project didn't succeed. Instead we were sitting around the common fire, drinking hot chocolate with marshmallows, and talking till it was time to hit the hay.
I slept a bit unrestful that night, likely in anticipation of my responsibility as a Daily Guide the following day. I planned to wake up at 5.30 but didn't hear the Alarm of my Suunto Core, and so I was up at 5.55 and going to wake up my partner and then the "clients". At 7.30 the group was together, and after some warm-up exercises and a group hug we started to walk. However, our walk was only short, because as we hit the bay which lead up to the river, the teacher stepped in and it was education time.
The exercise was to construct a raft to shuttle the packs and people across the bay. To construct the raft, we used two backpacks, two CCF mats and three wooden beams as well as a tarp/ groundsheet. I felt the exercise was fairly pointless, as we were a mere 15 minutes walk away from where we could have simply crossed the river on foot without even getting our feet wet and continue our trip. But this was an educational experience, and the "clients" enjoyed the task so it meant to stay positive (which I had problems with, I admit) and carry on. The raft worked well, and we got everyone safe and dry across the bay, after which we continued to the lunch place.
Mountain lake.
After lunch it was my turn to lead, and the route was to ascend Mt. Murtokumvara and descend on the other site to lake Ciprinka. However, one of the clients had severe knee problems, and another clients had back problems, so I needed to look for an easier route. Taking a bearing on a mountain lake, we proceeded. It was a new thing for me to be the leader of such a big group, and needing to cater to so many different needs and wants. However, I was lucky as the sun came out, which helped getting everyone in a good mood and by the time we arrived at the lake people were enjoying the walk.
I kept to the regular breaks, as we were still ascending a fair bit and I didn't want to go to hard on the clients with health problems. But the walk through nice mixed forests was easy, we made good speed, my bearings were spot on and by 16.30 we arrived at lake Ciprinka, we were lounged for a while in the sun before moving a bit further on to the planned camping spot.
Lake Ciprinka with view on Pyainur, the highest elevation in the area.
The requirements for campsites which we got were a) good firewood b) shelter from elements c) enough good pitching spots and d) a view. The camping spot I picked scored high on b), c) and d) though there were some remarks on a) as there was predominately pine around, which sparks a lot. Nevertheless, the clients were happy campers and feedback for me was largely positive at the common fire in the evening, though I was reminded that it was a educational expedition and that thus my frustration with the raft building exercise was not good.
View from campsite four.
I sat around for a long while around the common fire, long after everyone else had gone to sleep, and enjoyed looking at the embers, and the stars above me. It felt good to have mastered everything today, arrived where I wanted with a nice walk through beautiful scenery, and everyone was still healthy.
The wake-up call on day five came, and I soon was eating breakfast and enjoyed the lovely autumn view. The lake lay silent in front of me, and I enjoyed my coffee and müsli so much that I was a few minutes late. We had another warm-up session and group hug, and started our stroll towards campsite five.
The educational exercise of the day was triangulation, as we came to a spot where we could see the mountain range in front of us. I didn't bother with it and went down the hill to the lake, having a drink of ice cold water and snapped some photos. After a much too long break for my taste we continued, the "trail" went this time over moss-covered boulders which made for interesting walking.
We traversed the boulders without casualties, and started to walk the two or so kilometers till the intended campsite. The going was hard, we were in a very steep area, to the left the lake, to the right the fjell, not many camping places were around. The Daily Guide decided to spread wide to see more of the area and find a suitable spot, and while I and others went ahead to look, we were called back.
View from camp five.
What was waiting to happen, happened. The "client" with the heavy backpack and knee problems took a wrong step, twisted her calf and was down. Happily one of our classmates is a nurse, who immediately was there and administered first aid. We weren't going anywhere, and camp would be made where we were - searching for a good spot, the groups went off while the patient slowly hobbled to her spot, which her partner was setting up. Cooking dinner, common fire, discussions, hot chocolate, sleeping.
What's the story? Morning Glory.
Monday, rest day. I'm up a tad before 7.30 o'clock, grabbing the camera and descend down to the shore to relish the silence during the sunrise while the others are still sleeping. By the time I am back up at camp, the first ones are getting up, and I join a classmate to boil a cup of water for müsli and coffee. The plan is to go for the top of Pyainur, and by 11 o'clock a group of nine starts ascending. We make the 380m in ascent in a little over two hours, and enjoy the view from the top.
Just beneath the summit.
View from the top.
A fine ridge walk.
We take in the view, for me the best part of the whole trip, and after a while move down, out of the strong wind, to a more sheltered location to have lunch. Gas cookers soon are roaring,and luncheons are consumed. I offered my services as the last man as we started up, having an eye out for strugglers and supporting the Daily Guide. We start to walk, and while I wait for our teacher to come he sends me off with the words "I'll catch up with you". As he has been on the way up behind me and didn't get lost, I wasn't worried and started walking; but after a while I don't see him behind me and inform the DG.
Our calls remain unanswered, no surprise with this roaring wind, and after a few minutes of confusion we organize a search line, retracing our steps towards the campsite. We arrive there, but no teacher. The decision is made to commence down to camp, and call in at 16 o'clock to the basecamp and ask if the teacher already has arrived - we guessed he'd just made his way down after he got lost, and that we were treated with another exclusive education experience. The Satphone is a tricky device, and only the fourth try is answered. Yes, he is there, all fine, make your way down. Good, off we go.
Wilderness TV.
The evening around the campfire brings the news that we'll evacuate to the closest road, and a group of four will go get the cars - the patient won't be able to cover the ten or more kilometers to the cars. Her gear will be split up between the group, and she will only carry her 4 kg (!) Finnish Parachute Troopers backpack. No ridge walk then, as the original plan foresaw.
Wake-up call at six, breakfast, packing, ascending the hill till the lake on the saddle, then continue onwards. A beautiful sunny day, moods are high, the area is gorgeous and the views spectacular. We pass mountain lakes and an abandoned settlement, and by two o'clock we reach our campsite.
Abandoned log house. What is its story?
Sun, water, joy.
Bear poop.
I pitch high on a ridge, the wind is howling but I want a view. I drop down in the afternoon to have a cup of coffee with my mate, but he needs to make a Satphone call to the group who went to fetch the cars. I drink my cup, have a chat with my room mate and we wait for our friend to come back. After a good 45 minutes I walk to get him, and he lets me know that I should get ready to get the others, they got lost on the way to the cars.
A few calls later - did I mention that Satphones are tricky devices? - we know that they made it to the cars and are now on their way back, but they'd like us to come to the road to pick them up. Dusk is in full swing, and by the time the rescue team starts walking it is dark. We hit the road after a quarter, and a few minutes later we see the headlights of the cars - they made it! We deal out the snacks and jackets we brought, and start to walk back to camp.
The evening community fire is in full swing, as some members imagine to hear a bear. There is plenty of evidence of bears around the campsite - tracks and poop - and so the seed of fear is planted in some, even when the teacher reassures us that it is just the old tree which is creaking in the wind; and that a bear would likely hoof it as soon as he'd smell or see us. It is our last night out in the wild, and with that in mind I wander of to the high ridge on which I have pitched.
I just got comfy in my bivy bag as I hear a "flap, flap, flap". Well, better check that out then. The wind ripped out the peg I drove into the piece of rotten wood, thus out of the bag, re-stake, and back in. The wind goes strong the whole night, and I sleep a bit unrestful, but by the time my alarm goes off I feel fit. The view is magnificent, the stars slowly fading on my right, while I can see the red of dawn on my left - this will be a fine day.
Pyainur at dawn. EPIC.
We have a late start as the sun slowly creeps over the hill, basking our campsite in morning glory while the mist plays on the lake. The short walk to the car goes quick, and soon we pack up the stuff in the car and head back to the parking lot, where we left the trailer. The sun is making us feel warm and happy, though a cold wind is blowing. We sort out the gear, load the trailer and start the ride back to the village, way ahead of schedule.
Ranger station at the entry to the National Park.
Half way along the road we are stopped - it is the border zone and you always need to carry your passport and documents. We thought this will be a routine check, but what then ensues is interesting: The visitor centre of the NP forgot to give us an important document, and after an hour of discussing we need to follow the Military Police and the official to the village. Our teacher and our Russian classmate handle the situation very calmly, while the rest of the group hits the shop in Paajärvi and stocks up on Vodka and snacks for the trip. After about five and half hours we are free to continue to Finland, having solved the issue and we only needed to pay a minimum fine - the highest fine would have been deportation to your home country!
We are on the road again, the border crossing goes fine and we arrive just in time in Kuusamo to hit the spa (school pays!) to enjoy sauna, steam bath and hot showers after nine days in the wilderness. After everyone is clean we proceed to the local Pizza place, and after we are fully satisfied we hit the hay. The following day is driving back to the school in Kuru, a boring day of driving a good 800 km, but we also survived that.
Well, that was Russia, expedition one. It was beautiful landscape-wise, I was not disappointed, though I would have liked to walk some ridges and more kilometers a day, but being in a group it meant going as fast as the slowest member. The group experience was good as well, I learned to think more about others when guiding/ walking and to help out. I reckon some of the others saw that UL and Lightweight backpacking has its benefits, and I was asked to hold a lecture about it in the coming weeks at school =) I'll report on gear (including the gear list) and food during the coming days, and more detailed reviews of a couple of items in the next weeks.
Finally, on the subject of being off grid and not having a phone signal. I wanted to send my girlfriend a message every night to let her know that I am OK, and maybe send the occasional tweet. However, in the complete area - even on top of the fjell Pyainur - I had No Service, thus making it impossible to communicate with the outside world. I honestly can say that I didn't miss anything, it was relaxing to follow the daily routine and not worry about emails, news, work, and so on. I just could be, and that's what the outdoors are for.
From Russia With Love
Good read Hendrik. I think they can learn something from you.
ReplyDeleteAs for sending messages home, a spot tracker is a good solution. I've been using one for a year now and have never failed to get a message back yet.
You may not have missed posting to twitter Hendrik, but I know I did. Personally I really enjoy sharing your adventures. For most people real time reflections are powerful tools to improving actions that you have already taken. At the very least they offer fodder to make you think about what went right or wrong and how to improve the situation. As a bonus those of us luck enough to share may have ideas that help you.
ReplyDeleteThe pics are stunning as usual. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for your great posting, Hendrik.
ReplyDeleteAnd you've done some marvelous pictures again.
This whole trip reminds me of my own education and training. But that was during my time in the service when I did only know UH-gear. Even the raft-building and the bog-crossing looks familiar to me. Today I would take an other (and lighter) approach in almost every thing.
I really hope that those other guides-to-be will see the benefits of lightweight gear, too.
Looking forward for your other trips to come...
Wow, what a fantastic experience Hendrik, thank you so much for sharing this with us. And another 'wow' for some of your classmate's packs. I mean, holy shit! And they wonder why they had knee problems?!
ReplyDeleteI guess we've both had to deal with 'group dynamics' recently. Maybe I should have told everyone at the hytte that we needed a group hug...
It looks like the 'slog through the bog' that was our Vålådalen trip was good practice for your Russia trip. It will interesting to read your views on your gear selection, especially footwear. I can't imagine carrying gum boots...
Fantastic photos and an interesting read. But 23kg? Really?
ReplyDeleteDave, lets see if some will learn. I need to say, there were a few (very few) members who were fairly lightweight; one mate had a nice traditional setup, wearing woolen clothes, sleeping under a 3x3 tarp and he was comfy and warm. So not all were UH. I might look into the Spot Tracker, the next expeditions will be in Finland were coverage is ubiquitous. But for future Russian trips I might look into it!
ReplyDeleteharrtj, thanks for the always insightful comments and tweets! Those are good arguments for tweeting on the trip, and I reckon that when in Finland I will be tweeting now and then. But it is good to know that I can do without, as it sometimes seems I spend morning to evening glued to a digital device - being thus fine without anything for a prolonged amount of time feels refreshing, almost healthy!
Basti, thank you for stopping by & the kind words. My brother was SaZ8 and hence I am a bit familiar with the UH gear of the BUND, but he too has now seen the light ;) The next trips are in the depth of winter...
Joe, takk! Yeah, they did wonder, but I also wonder if those who had the problems saw the benefit of a lighter pack? The group hug is great, builds some sense of community, you touch other humans, it is soothing and relaxing and puts people in a good mood. Definitely a must-do on future trips!
Hei John, thanks for commenting, your blog looks interesting! There were a few who actually seem to have had more than 23 kg, and the patient had 26 kg to start with before she sorted out some of her gear... But with a 4 kg backpack, taking away a merino top and a plastic bowl doesn't make much of a difference.
Holy shit, I thought I was an 'Ultra heavy' hiker, but a 4 Kg backpack? 23 Kg load? Maybe she packed down her lucky bowling ball or something.
ReplyDeleteNice to see Woolpower was in your pack list! And very nice to see so many group hugs on the menu!
Did you think there was anything that you missed out due to the ultra-light gear?
Fantastic write up Hendrik. I felt your frustrations with the "group mentality" reading that. It seems it was a learning experience all round. It saddens me when I wonder how many people are still being put off going out and enjoying the outdoors by carrying huge loads.
ReplyDeleteFirst of all: Thanks Hendrik! A great trip report with nice pictures. Just what I needed for the Monday afternoon in the office! =)
ReplyDeleteIt is hard for a lightweight backpacker to understand that 90% (or 99%) of all hikers are of the traditional sort where total pack weight around 20kg is considered quite light and 30kg is not unheart of... And of course, everyone can hike their one hike - but in group things are different.
Hendrik, it seems that you had your times of frustration. If you would have had a chance to plan the whole trip on your own, what would you have done differently? Forcing people to take less gear (not a bad option...)? Different route? No raft bulding? (Which is nice exercice but usually pointless with modern hiking equipment and materials...)
And what kind of satphones you were using? Iridium or Thuraya or something else?
If you want to keep your girlfriend happy and stay on the grid even in the Russia (which I hope, because it is always nice to follow a trip in real time...) I could recommed the SPOT tracker. The new version is even better with three different messages and tracking option. Or you could get a satphone of your one and tweet on your way! =D Thuraya satphones are not impossibly expensive and even though the satphone SIMs are really expensive, you can use Thuraya phone with Finnish Elisa SIM without high monthly costs (though the prices per minute or per message are a bit higher). You can buy or rent SPOT, sat phones and other communications stuff from Finnish company called Savantum.
Oh, and I forgot to ask: As the trip was like it was (short days of slow walking, a lot of rest stops, etc.) would you have somehow altered your gear? Maybe carry a bit heavier stuff for extra comfort? Carry some extra treats? Or is the fast-and-light kit just as good for short days full of long pauses as it is for fastpacking?
ReplyDeleteHahaha. Very good reading. It is hard to become a Wilderness Guide among ultraheavy backpackers :D I know Russia a bit because of my trips to Siberia but Karelia a real beauty. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat read and superb photos! I almost felt I was there. Did you get any comments on your gear while on the trip?
ReplyDeleteRegarding a 4 kg pack - most guys here in Norway seem to carry this one: http://bit.ly/acu3C9. They're nuts.
Thanks, Hendrik, for sharing your experiences! It would be a new experience for me to walk in such a big group.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to see your gear list!
Seems like a great experience all round!
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to see you're getting further into the bushcraft & nature side of things - sleeping with bracket fungus :)
...although not in the biblical sense (I hope)
ReplyDeleteHendrik - what a great adventure! Excellent photos. Just to reiterate some other comments, I cannot believe the pack sizes - or maybe I can, I saw a Fjallraven catalogue the other day - monster backpacks. I have recently had problems with my knees , but that is more to my age! However, carrying that load would see me off. You have a education opportunity with lightweight gear :)
ReplyDeleteMark
thank you for this wonderful read. your frustrations are carried over with great humor and i really enjoy your honesty about your experiences.
ReplyDeletei'm quite motivated to try this education but i have a family and i would miss my girls too much to be away for 10 months. i can barely manage 2 weeks without putting a crack in my heart.
looking forward to your gear list and i'd love to know what food you packed for the 9 days.
Great read, Hendrik. Photos make long to be out there. As you know I am looking at doing some hiking in Russia, so I look forward to more info on that. Spot trackers sound interesting, I'll have to start looking into that.
ReplyDeleteHendrik:
ReplyDeleteGreat post -- What are the calf-high boots that u'r group are wearing in "The UH train starts moving - slowly." ?
www.very.fm
Sounds a bit of a weird trip!? I can understand your frustration at the lack of kilometres walked - I reckon my 6 year old could easily handle that amount of walking! I reckon my pack weighed about 20 kgs last weekend. Camping gear plus a 60 mtr single rope, plus a ridiculously large rack of climbing gear I'm reviewing, plus a moderately large amount of beer topped off with large hip flask of what I thought was whiskey but turned out do be dubious tasting spirits of an undetermined nature. What on earth did they have in their packs? :-)
ReplyDeleteHi Hendrick,
ReplyDeleteGreat write up & photographs as alway's, loved the early morning photos & your accounts of your epic nine day experdition In Russia.
Royal Marines carry 23kg loads and more but they are Commandoes and super fit. Why the rest of your class do is a puzzle to me?
ReplyDeleteGreat photos and great report. Interesting lessons they wanted you to learn. What is with all the rubber boots they had???????
Hi Henrik,
ReplyDeleteVery interesting as usual.
Some comments:
Dave Hanlon mentions the SPOT…I use SPOT so my wife can follow my progress – however like all things electronic they are NOT perfect. 1/3 of messages I have sent have NOT arrived. When I send a SPOT message I write in my notebook my exact location so I can check with the SPOT message sent on my return.
I accept that sometimes e.g. forest canopy, deep gullies etc satellite signals can be difficult – however on many occasions I have had open views of the sky from the tops and the message has not been received.
That said I usually send one on setting up camp, one on leaving camp and one at lunch so it is still easy to follow my progress.
With regard to group dynamics – Although it might seem frustrating you have to go at the pace of the slowest and is very good training for the real thing. This I can guarantee you – if you should ever become a guide you will always have people that are unfit or people who think they are fit! By that you will have people that go to the gym, jog and all that crap but they are NOT hill fit. There is an enormous difference between walking on the flat and walking for miles with steep ascents and descents, through bog etc.
You will also find that the unexpected happens – even with fit clients – an accident happens or someone on medication either forgets to take their prescribed medication or a chronic condition suddenly becomes acute.
You will also have clients you just can not please no matter what you do!
I know, I have been there! Not as a “wilderness guide” but in another lifetime, as a part time deer stalker taking clients out on the hill.
Martin said “What is with all the rubber boots they had???????” Martin, Finland and that part of Russia can be very boggy – as you saw from Henrik’s photos – for decades it has been common for Finnish hikers to use rubber boots. We UL, running shoe wearing hikers are in a minority – and I suspect, always will!!!
Cheers,
Rob fae Craigellachie
About SPOT:
ReplyDeleteRobert, do you use the first or second generation SPOT? The second is said to be much more reliable.
I was skiing for a week in Sarek in Northern Sweden and the SPOT (1st gen) worked like a charm. We sent around 6-8 OK messages a day to make a track of our progress (and in addition some OKs from the car on the way to North and on the way back). Every message arrived. The owner of the SPOT had used it in the same place on previous week with same experience: worked like a charm. We used same set of Lithium AA batteries and even though temps were as low as -28C (and the SPOT was on top of a pulka) the batteries worked for the two weeks. The open terrain might have something to do with the good reliability.
Great article!
ReplyDeleteYes, a 23 kilo pack is not especially heavy. I'd say that is a fairly traditional weight for a one week trip in the Swedish mountains for example. That's what I had 10-15 years ago.
Hendrik, I was wondering about trekking poles. Did your team mates use them? Would the people with the knee and back problems have benefited from using poles, or did they already use them?
Terrific post - love the picture of the abandoned log house. I wonder who laboured over building it, who lived in it, who left it?
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Mungo
Hello hendrik; nice report. What was the weight of your pack including the food at the beginning of the trip.
ReplyDelete20kg is ok to carry at the good pace, but more than that, it's really hard.
I wonder what did she put in her pack. 26kg seems incredible for 9 days trip !
Tomas, Woolpower is in almost every pack list of mine - love their stuff! I didn't think I missed out on anything due to UL gear, I don't like a fire in front of my shelter either way, which could have been the only thing.
ReplyDeleteBigbananafeet, thank you! While I was frustrated (and didn't mean to let it sound through =) I tried to keep a positive attitude on the trip and towards the others, even if some things annoyed me to bits (slow speed, some decisions)
Korpijaakko, kiitos! You said it nicely - everyone can hike their own hike, but in a group it is different. What maybe frustrates me in that respect is that, even when telling people about lightpacking beforehand, it is me who needs to scale down and "fit the group" in regards to speed and equipment. As one of the strong and fast ones, you need to go slower and trot with the slow and weak ones - a "problem", as my mentality is usually "Survival of the fittest" :D
I definitely had times of frustration, but then again, it is an education & group experience and one needs to fit in. What I would have done different? Make them pack less, for sure, nicer & longer route (c'mon, average of 6 km/ day?), learn to read the landscape & map so that you don't need to go through bogs, less common gear (you don't need 8 axes and 8 saws for 14 people), no raft building if a crossing is 15 minutes walking away. Can't say for sure which Satphones, one was a Iridium; but both were rented from a place in Finland. I might look into a own Satphone if I do more distant treks in Russia, for the moment my iPhone is good enough =)
The gear was fine as it is, I actually could have left the synthetic jacket at home I think. I had plenty of food & treats with me, so much actually that I was giving away stuff. So no additions, more of "even less"! Thanks for the excellent, thought provoking comment!
Piotr, thanks for stopping by =) Siberia would be awesome to go backpacking, where have you been? My classmate is from Lake Baikal, so there are some plans in the air to go visit him sometime! Karelia is indeed a beauty, if you have the chance, go visit it.
Thomas, take! Got some comments, mostly in a kind of sneer-like way because people had problems with their gear whereas I was fine and plenty of extra power to go. Thanks to you for the gear-list, btw, made me change one thing of my gear.
Kiitos -maria-! Gearlist and kit discussions coming up soon =)
Hei Nick, I always was into the nature side of things! Bushcraft is closely related to UL, as we have discussed before, and it was nice to carry an axe and knowing that if I would want to, could just build a shelter with it and would be fine! Definitely will look more into the bushcraft kind of things. And that was a bracket fungus was the wrong sort, I was looking for Fomes fomentarius but wasn't lucky.
Mark, I couldn't believe the size of some of the packs either - just crazy. There were three people who were close to 50 years old, and they had all massive packs. Two of them had the health problems, but imo that wasn't entirely due to the packs. Gear and food list coming soon!
Thanks Cornelius for the kind words. I believe it is best to be my true self and say how things went, and not paint an ideal picture - in the end some might want to take the same path as me because of that, and aren't prepared for some of the things which might encounter them. So best to be honest and take it with humor! Kuru is a nice town, btw, and I am sure that your family could like it there while you do the education ;)
Jörgen, make sure to brush up your Russian if you head over, I think it is VERY important - see our document problem. Or hike with a Russian mate, if you can find one!
Hi John, and thank you for commenting! The boots are Rubber boots, which were the (highly) recommended footwear for the trip.
ReplyDeleteToby, nah, it wasn't weird, or what gives you that impression? They had massive sleeping bags, extra clothes, big mattresses, massive amounts of food and kitchen gear with them. I think I tried to ignore to see, cuz it might have driven me nuts!
Thank you Paul!
Martin, it is "The Way" here, that is why. The gear instruction at the forest camp week showed off external frame backpacks weighing three to four kg and being praised as "the gear for wilderness guides". The rubber boots was the highly recommended footwear for the trip, as we would be walking in a very wet environment. Its what people get told and hence do - glad I resisted, though!
Hei Robert, I might look into a Gen. 2 SPOT if I go to Russia or similar areas, but for the moment the phone will do. It is off all the time except when I send a message to my girlfriend, and in Finland we almost have universal coverage =)
Plans are set to become a guide, and I am at the moment in the process of establishing the company. I hope to be able to pick my clients, but I reckon that will be wishful thinking. Maybe what frustrated me in this trip most is that these weren't "clients" but people who want to become wilderness guides themselves - I would thus expect a sort of common fitness and ability of walking in the outdoors… Though as you said, it was a good experience, something that prepares me for the live as a guide when it is that far!
Lightening up, thanks for the info on the SPOT. We go to Hammastunturi on our Solo-ski expedition, where there's phone coverage, so I reckon I don't need a SPOT just yet.
Hej Martin, kites! There was one mate who had trekking poles and used them, the two patients made themselves a wood staff which they used for walking. I reckon if they would have used trekking poles they might have had less problems, but I am not sure - they had big packs on!
Mungo, nice to see you commenting! There was a bunch of this buildings, surely some fifteen to twenty of them - all in a similar state of decay. I can ask my Russian classmate if he knows more about them, but we were riddling about them as well.
Bastien, my complete skin-out weight was a bit over 17 kg - that is including the clothing and gear I was wearing and the food for ten days. Expect a detailed list during the next days! I had a look at her gear the night before we started walking, things included - 2,5 sets of baselayer, 2 midlayers, 1,5 hardshells, 500 g of one-time handwarmers, complete set of cutlery and couple of plates (plastic) and some other stuff. I think we got her down to 2 baselayers, one midlayer and one outer layer at the end, but with a 4 kg backpack that's just a drop on the hot stone, as we say in Germany!
Thanks, Hendrik, a nice write up as usual. Glad to see you sticking to tarps and trail shoes in the face of adversity!
ReplyDeleteIt looks a lot like northern Finland, but I imagine with even less people (bar the occasional bare-chested Putin running around). The views from the top of the ridge were spectacular though. Was that a Sami kota structure I saw in one photo?
I can sympathise with your frustrations. The low mileage and slow pace must have been annoying. Lots of rest days also. But I suppose that's part of guiding. I am surprised however at the fitness of your fellow students. How can they plan to be guides?
I've experienced the joy of Russian border guards myself. They 'detained' me for three hours once, simply because they could. It does indeed help to know some Russian, or better still know a Russian.
And lastly - I agree, the Suunto Core alarm doesn't live up to the rugged nature of the watch (sorry, wrist-top computer).
Mr. Morkel reminds me of http://www-usr.rider.edu/~suler/zenstory/emptycup.html
ReplyDeleteHand warmer. Those stuff should be forbidden for people wanting to become guide.
ReplyDeleteI am always shocked by the pack of people. This previous winter in inari lake we cut down almost 2/3 of what people wanted to take on the trip.
And also people dont know the principle of multi layer, which clothes go first and so on
One thing that amazes me is the weather in your trip. Practically no rain, no heavy winds. It is amazing luck to be out there in such a good conditions for several days. So I guess only point I’m making here is that it’s really possible to have good weather conditions even on end of September. (Never happened to me) After all weather has a big impact on mood and trip experience, no matter how good gear one has. Good weather trips are just more fun. :)
ReplyDelete-Humppakummitus
Hi Hendrik.
ReplyDeleteI'm here with some feedback.
First of all, nice trip review. As there are no canyons, nor many mountains in Finland I've always been looking at our neighbouring countries, i.e. Sweden and Norway for adventures. However, one should clearly start thinking about Russia as a real potential destination as well. Thank's for the idéa.
Second, by purpose or not, I too felt your frustration, and about that... I personally have a background in scouting and I see the problems you are having - I've found myself in the same situation on many occasions as well. I therefore think you should think about the following.
I know you have opened your eyes fully on ultralight backpacking, but do not disgust the ways of heavy backpacking - your future customers will most likely have a background in just that.
Through scouting you learn not only to take care of yourself in the woods, but also taking care of each other. Fact is that every demanding situation has one think in common, teamwork.
The reason for choosing that spot for building a raft - as anyone can imagine - clearly had one major advantage, safety. So in that sense, beeing frustrated for location is just missing the point of the excercise. As for the speed, again, all serious folk know that it's the weakest member of the team that dictates the speed, period. And last, were you supposed to share shelter, equipment, cookware and food with a partner/small team - that would take down the loads significantly.
As I said these are some honest, well-meaning thoughts from someone that has and from time and again finds himself in similar situations. Try to focus on your social skills as your wilderness skills are clearly in the top of the clas.
Still interested to see your packlist and read some kit notes; echo, backpack...
Thank's for a nice write up.
Daniel
I would say that you whined a little too much. You need to learn some humility and don't put yourself over other people. They may done some things wrong on the first trip, but they will improve on second and third. Some will be more skillful than you in the end. Don't be so smug with your equipment now, and you will need more stuff when the winter comes. Most important: stop whining.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteFirst, thank you from your blog! I have red it occasionally, and I have found it interesting, although ultralight backpacking doesn't offer too much to me (at least just now). I found this post particularly interesting, so I decided to write a comment :). The idea of ultralight "evangelist" trying to breach the walls of heavyweight wilderness guide-fortress is really funny, and I really expected that some frustration may occur during the trip.
As some previous writers have well expressed that the point of some exercises was clearly to practise teamwork and to create team spirit, so I don't have anything new to say about that. However, I may have an answer for those house ruins you wondered, and answer is likely simple: Josif Stalin (alongside with Adolf Hitler). As you now, the Paanajärvi NP you visited is actually neighbouring park of Oulanka NP where Karhunkierros trail is located. Prior to WW2 Paanajärvi area was part of Finland, and after Soviet invasion in 1939-1940, the area (along with area near lake Laatokka/Ladoga) was ceded to Soviet Union. There was also an other war (so called continuation war) in 1941-1941 between Finland and SU, this time with help of Germans. For Finns, war was not successful after Germany's defeat and Soviet onslaught at 1944. According to peace treaty, Finns turned against Germans, who destroyed anything they could in Lapland as a revenge. Thus, those buildings may be ruins from some of those wars from WW 2 era.
Another reason may be collectivization in Soviet Union (you can also blame Stalin or his successors for that!). Large collectives were part of soviet ideology, because the "political consciousness" of people was more easily monitored there, compared to people living and working in apart. Third -and less dramatic- explanation is "normal" centralization -people are moving in cities all over the world. There are also a lot of abandoned houses in Finnish countryside, as you probably have noticed. As there apparently are some Russian blog readers also, so they may have more precise information about those houses?
Otherwise, I don'n basically like the idea of looking down fellow hikers because of their (often too heavy) gear. As you had at Karhunkierros trip some 20 ++ kg bags for less than an week-trip, so 26 kg (including 4 kg backpack) for 9 days trip shouldn't be THAT big surprise. I think that the main reason of heavy backpacks is simply that majority of hikers are not so "gear orientated", so they simply take their gear just from wardrobes and go on to the trail. This is quite sound approach for hiking, if amount of hikes per year is average or low (1-3 or like that). Also people usually have only one tent, one backpack etc., which is quite different thing than having at least five pieces of that equipment for different situations...
Regards, Haukikala
nice write up Hendrick and some nice piccy's (love to see the others you've taken). and yeh don't be so hard on us UHH. some of us just aspire to be LW. as for your and others comments on fittness (and as one of the old farts with injurys i feel justified in taking it personaly). shit happens. I have had problms with my back for many years. it comes, it goes. this time it was brought on not by the weight of my pack (heavy as it was). but by me not having it ajusted to fit me, my own fault. after a few days i finally got it siting better, but still feel that it's not the best.:( as for being very fit to be a guide. well that depends on what sort of a guide one intends to be doesnt it? not all guiding involves 30k hikes over mountains after all. (this way please to santa's groto).
ReplyDeleteIT WAS THE FOOD! my base weight was not so bad,(?????) but food was somthing near to 10kg i think. i had near 2 kg when we got back WTF! thats what comes with inexperiance and trying to work in a group.
respectfully kevin. not so much anonymous as anoythemost.
Mark, what else than tarps and trailshoes would I use - I don't own anything else! There were only those two Fishermen which we encountered, otherwise no one. Maybe more people in theNP, but I doubt it. It looked like a Kota, definitely a quota like structure there underneath the summit.
ReplyDeleteBastien, I think the layer principle was familiar to most on the trip, and regarding the other stuff: "C'est la vie!" I tried to ignore what I could, but some stuff is just unbelievable and not ignorable.
Hei Humppakummitus, yeah, we had excellent weather - our teacher wasn't happy, though :D True words which you write there, good weather = good mood & more fun. But apparently the educational experience is better if you have rain for seven days…
Daniel, thanks for stopping by! I'm planning another Russia adventure, Siberia, actually. Definitely something to consider if one ones hills and mountains! Even if it didn't sound like it in the text or I haven't mentioned it, I took an active part in building the raft and other team activities. The reason for location of the raft building also was obvious to me - no wind, can stand in the water = safety - though good that you point it out =) The weakest member dictating the speed, well, yes and no. The discussion would go to far OT, though, so for the moment I will just agree with you. I carried the common cooker, and my food partner had his mess-kit while I used a Ti Pot (in which I stored the cooker). We shared saw & axe, and each had his own shelter - the Loue's are too small for two to be comfortable, an ET would be OK, though (would still be a good 300 g heavier than my Echo I). There were some who did that better than my partner and me, but they still had big loads to carry. Thanks you for the constructive and honest feedback, it is much appreciated!
Hei Haukkikala, thanks for your comment! Stalin seems a very plausible answer - the Cipirnka reservoir/ lake is pretty much his doing, so the settlement could have been the village where the workers have lived - it wasn't too far from the dam away (seven to eight km). The other possibilities also are nice ideas, but I am really no expert - hopefully a Russian reader will drop by and enlighten us =) Regarding gear - yes and no. I don't look down on anyone because of their gear, it is more puzzlement how someone, who maybe isn't top fit, older, etc. is putting themselves in the situation of carrying 20+ kg on a trip when there are lightweight options. The argument of cost & comfort, which traditional backpackers then like to use, are BS - lightweight backpacks are comfortable and affordable (eg GoLite Pinnacle, cottage gear). Furthermore, we are in a Wilderness Guide education (though not everyone will end up as one), so I would expect some sort of good backpacking equipment, be it heavy or light. That is my personal view, and is not the ultimate view. As long as people enjoy their time outdoors and come back healthy and with a good experience, they can for me carry 60 kg.
Kevin, you're not annoy the most - you're a great chap, and you know it! I think not everyone on this course will become a Wilderness Guide, much less one who walks 30km/ day - some will become Wilderness cooks, Day guides, Nature guides, and so on - whatever suits the person. If I sound hard, then it is more the above mentioned puzzlement - LW and UL backpacking is ideal for older people, as it allows them to travel in safety and comfort in the outdoors - you're still welcome to try my GoLite Pinnacle! I think for the next trips people will know better, in respect to both food and gear - for some it was the first trip, so it is no surprise if one takes too much food - you'll do better! Have a good holiday =)
Thanks Hendrik, what I find most interesting about this post and many other blogs, is being able to see what other people do/use, sometime they prompt ideas and other times I say, nah not for me.
ReplyDeleteGroup trips are always a challenge having taken school groups away for up to 2 weeks in the aussie wilderness there will always be times that you will ask yourself why am I doing this, why did they not listen to me, etc. But, in the end you will say, Wow I have taken them to XXX and they have experienced XXX and because of me they may take others into the forests, the lakes and begin to understand and appreciate the importance of the outdoors.
For Kevin. I have had a lower back problem for a number of years, brought about by trying to lift a 1 tonne trailer at the end of a days hay carting. What has helped me is:
1. Do some exercising to stretch and strengthen the back and stomach muscles
2. Using a Thermarest NeoAir, which supports the lower back when you are lying down.
3. Using an Aarn Pack, maybe not for everybody, but finding a pack that reduces the stress on the lower back is very important if you want to be able to walk for many days.
Thanks Hendrik for a wonderfully informative post
Hendrik, I do love reading your posts. You will make a marvelous guide. I am a little shocked to hear of your classmates apparent inexperience, though.
ReplyDeleteI envy your trip.
Hi All
ReplyDeleteThere was quite some talk about the 'stop whining' attitude and that many hikers only take what they have/beg/borrow/steal. Fair enough, however, this is a wilderness guide (GUIDE) program Hendrik is on. Doesn't that mean you should be showing the way to do things, best practices, that kind of idea. So, the question begs, why isn't gear knowledge part of the program? Maybe it should be. Maybe, there should be some MYOG classes.
About the team building exercise: this is debatable but to actually build a team you have to truly challenge people. Apparently, people going through this course will guide others, through wilderness, through the wild. Somehow the team building should involve risks beyond wet feet and tired knees. An education is always a more protected sphere than it is when you are guiding folk into bear and wolf and canyon and wild water country. So maybe during your education you should be stressed more than when you take a group through the wilderness by yourself. At least you get a sense of what danger is.
Additionally, I didn't find the tone whining or whinging, simply voicing honest frustration.
At the risk of whining about the whiners whining about the whining.
My 2 cents
Great photos,looks like a great place to go hiking.
ReplyDeleteIn Your photo sun,water,joy the berries are rosehip which make a nice tea full of vitamin C,remember to scrape out the seed and hairs from within though.
Hi All
ReplyDeleteThere was quite some talk about the 'stop whining' attitude and that many hikers only take what they have/beg/borrow/steal. Fair enough, however, this is a wilderness guide (GUIDE) program Hendrik is on. Doesn't that mean you should be showing the way to do things, best practices, that kind of idea. So, the question begs, why isn't gear knowledge part of the program? Maybe it should be. Maybe, there should be some MYOG classes.
About the team building exercise: this is debatable but to actually build a team you have to truly challenge people. Apparently, people going through this course will guide others, through wilderness, through the wild. Somehow the team building should involve risks beyond wet feet and tired knees. An education is always a more protected sphere than it is when you are guiding folk into bear and wolf and canyon and wild water country. So maybe during your education you should be stressed more than when you take a group through the wilderness by yourself. At least you get a sense of what danger is.
Additionally, I didn't find the tone whining or whinging, simply voicing honest frustration.
At the risk of whining about the whiners whining about the whining.
My 2 cents
Tomas, Woolpower is in almost every pack list of mine - love their stuff! I didn't think I missed out on anything due to UL gear, I don't like a fire in front of my shelter either way, which could have been the only thing.
ReplyDeleteBigbananafeet, thank you! While I was frustrated (and didn't mean to let it sound through =) I tried to keep a positive attitude on the trip and towards the others, even if some things annoyed me to bits (slow speed, some decisions)
Korpijaakko, kiitos! You said it nicely - everyone can hike their own hike, but in a group it is different. What maybe frustrates me in that respect is that, even when telling people about lightpacking beforehand, it is me who needs to scale down and "fit the group" in regards to speed and equipment. As one of the strong and fast ones, you need to go slower and trot with the slow and weak ones - a "problem", as my mentality is usually "Survival of the fittest" :D
I definitely had times of frustration, but then again, it is an education & group experience and one needs to fit in. What I would have done different? Make them pack less, for sure, nicer & longer route (c'mon, average of 6 km/ day?), learn to read the landscape & map so that you don't need to go through bogs, less common gear (you don't need 8 axes and 8 saws for 14 people), no raft building if a crossing is 15 minutes walking away. Can't say for sure which Satphones, one was a Iridium; but both were rented from a place in Finland. I might look into a own Satphone if I do more distant treks in Russia, for the moment my iPhone is good enough =)
The gear was fine as it is, I actually could have left the synthetic jacket at home I think. I had plenty of food & treats with me, so much actually that I was giving away stuff. So no additions, more of "even less"! Thanks for the excellent, thought provoking comment!
Piotr, thanks for stopping by =) Siberia would be awesome to go backpacking, where have you been? My classmate is from Lake Baikal, so there are some plans in the air to go visit him sometime! Karelia is indeed a beauty, if you have the chance, go visit it.
Thomas, take! Got some comments, mostly in a kind of sneer-like way because people had problems with their gear whereas I was fine and plenty of extra power to go. Thanks to you for the gear-list, btw, made me change one thing of my gear.
Kiitos -maria-! Gearlist and kit discussions coming up soon =)
Hei Nick, I always was into the nature side of things! Bushcraft is closely related to UL, as we have discussed before, and it was nice to carry an axe and knowing that if I would want to, could just build a shelter with it and would be fine! Definitely will look more into the bushcraft kind of things. And that was a bracket fungus was the wrong sort, I was looking for Fomes fomentarius but wasn't lucky.
Mark, I couldn't believe the size of some of the packs either - just crazy. There were three people who were close to 50 years old, and they had all massive packs. Two of them had the health problems, but imo that wasn't entirely due to the packs. Gear and food list coming soon!
Thanks Cornelius for the kind words. I believe it is best to be my true self and say how things went, and not paint an ideal picture - in the end some might want to take the same path as me because of that, and aren't prepared for some of the things which might encounter them. So best to be honest and take it with humor! Kuru is a nice town, btw, and I am sure that your family could like it there while you do the education ;)
Jörgen, make sure to brush up your Russian if you head over, I think it is VERY important - see our document problem. Or hike with a Russian mate, if you can find one!
Mark, what else than tarps and trailshoes would I use - I don't own anything else! There were only those two Fishermen which we encountered, otherwise no one. Maybe more people in theNP, but I doubt it. It looked like a Kota, definitely a quota like structure there underneath the summit.
ReplyDeleteBastien, I think the layer principle was familiar to most on the trip, and regarding the other stuff: "C'est la vie!" I tried to ignore what I could, but some stuff is just unbelievable and not ignorable.
Hei Humppakummitus, yeah, we had excellent weather - our teacher wasn't happy, though :D True words which you write there, good weather = good mood & more fun. But apparently the educational experience is better if you have rain for seven days…
Daniel, thanks for stopping by! I'm planning another Russia adventure, Siberia, actually. Definitely something to consider if one ones hills and mountains! Even if it didn't sound like it in the text or I haven't mentioned it, I took an active part in building the raft and other team activities. The reason for location of the raft building also was obvious to me - no wind, can stand in the water = safety - though good that you point it out =) The weakest member dictating the speed, well, yes and no. The discussion would go to far OT, though, so for the moment I will just agree with you. I carried the common cooker, and my food partner had his mess-kit while I used a Ti Pot (in which I stored the cooker). We shared saw & axe, and each had his own shelter - the Loue's are too small for two to be comfortable, an ET would be OK, though (would still be a good 300 g heavier than my Echo I). There were some who did that better than my partner and me, but they still had big loads to carry. Thanks you for the constructive and honest feedback, it is much appreciated!
Hei Haukkikala, thanks for your comment! Stalin seems a very plausible answer - the Cipirnka reservoir/ lake is pretty much his doing, so the settlement could have been the village where the workers have lived - it wasn't too far from the dam away (seven to eight km). The other possibilities also are nice ideas, but I am really no expert - hopefully a Russian reader will drop by and enlighten us =) Regarding gear - yes and no. I don't look down on anyone because of their gear, it is more puzzlement how someone, who maybe isn't top fit, older, etc. is putting themselves in the situation of carrying 20+ kg on a trip when there are lightweight options. The argument of cost & comfort, which traditional backpackers then like to use, are BS - lightweight backpacks are comfortable and affordable (eg GoLite Pinnacle, cottage gear). Furthermore, we are in a Wilderness Guide education (though not everyone will end up as one), so I would expect some sort of good backpacking equipment, be it heavy or light. That is my personal view, and is not the ultimate view. As long as people enjoy their time outdoors and come back healthy and with a good experience, they can for me carry 60 kg.
Kevin, you're not annoy the most - you're a great chap, and you know it! I think not everyone on this course will become a Wilderness Guide, much less one who walks 30km/ day - some will become Wilderness cooks, Day guides, Nature guides, and so on - whatever suits the person. If I sound hard, then it is more the above mentioned puzzlement - LW and UL backpacking is ideal for older people, as it allows them to travel in safety and comfort in the outdoors - you're still welcome to try my GoLite Pinnacle! I think for the next trips people will know better, in respect to both food and gear - for some it was the first trip, so it is no surprise if one takes too much food - you'll do better! Have a good holiday =)
First of all: Thanks Hendrik! A great trip report with nice pictures. Just what I needed for the Monday afternoon in the office! =)
ReplyDeleteIt is hard for a lightweight backpacker to understand that 90% (or 99%) of all hikers are of the traditional sort where total pack weight around 20kg is considered quite light and 30kg is not unheart of... And of course, everyone can hike their one hike - but in group things are different.
Hendrik, it seems that you had your times of frustration. If you would have had a chance to plan the whole trip on your own, what would you have done differently? Forcing people to take less gear (not a bad option...)? Different route? No raft bulding? (Which is nice exercice but usually pointless with modern hiking equipment and materials...)
And what kind of satphones you were using? Iridium or Thuraya or something else?
If you want to keep your girlfriend happy and stay on the grid even in the Russia (which I hope, because it is always nice to follow a trip in real time...) I could recommed the SPOT tracker. The new version is even better with three different messages and tracking option. Or you could get a satphone of your one and tweet on your way! =D Thuraya satphones are not impossibly expensive and even though the satphone SIMs are really expensive, you can use Thuraya phone with Finnish Elisa SIM without high monthly costs (though the prices per minute or per message are a bit higher). You can buy or rent SPOT, sat phones and other communications stuff from Finnish company called Savantum.